How to prepare wood for staining

Before any exterior wood structure can be stained, it must be clean and free of any dirt, mold, and mildew. If the structure is constructed from new materials, we recommend waiting long enough for the wood to dry out from the milling process before staining, because the ideal internal moisture content for exterior wood is 13 percent or less. For cedar materials, this usually takes two weeks or less during the warmer months of the year. For structures built with pressure-treated materials, drying out could take three to six months, depending on the UV exposure, temperature, and board type. Weathered wood must be cleaned and bleached prior to staining to address any mildew spores. No matter the type of wood, we always recommend waiting 24-48 hours after rainfall or cleaning to make sure the structure is dry prior to staining.

If Wood Defender™ Oil Based Exterior Stains were used on the prior application, no stripping is necessary. A maintenance coat may be applied directly on top of the prior application as long as the surface is free of any dirt, mold, and mildew.

If the structure was previously stained with an oil-based product, Wood Defender Fence Stain or the 200 Series Stain & Seal may be used. We always recommend doing a penetration test to ensure that the wood stain will penetrate the surface if it was not previously protected with Wood Defender.

If the wood was previously stained with a water-based product, we recommend using the Wood Defender Semi-Solid Latex Stain. Before the semi-solid product can be applied, the wood surface must be properly prepped to remove any peeling, cracking, or blistering. A light pressure wash may be needed to remove any previously used products that are lifting from the surface.

Before staining a fence with Wood Defender Fence Stain, we always recommend that the substrate is clean and dry with a moisture content of less than 13 percent. The surface must be free of dirt and other contaminants.

New cedar fences can be stained within a couple of weeks, while pressure-treated pine materials require 60-90 days for the wood to dry and ensure it is porous enough to accept the stain.

Weathered wood must be cleaned with a bleach-and-water solution to remove any mold and mildew present prior to application. It is not necessary to rinse the bleach solution after the cleaning process on a vertical surface like a fence. Once the fence is dry and clean, it may be stained and sealed with Wood Defender Fence Stain or the 200 Series Wood Stain & Seal.

If a deck is new, we recommend waiting at least 90 days before staining and sealing the wood structure. Pressure-treated lumber or smooth milled cedar needs to cure three to six months prior to the staining process. Following these instructions will allow the wood to dry out from the milling process and ensure the pores are open enough to accept the stain.

It is common for deck boards to have a phenomenon called “mill glaze” on the surface, which prohibits adequate penetration. Mill glaze is often found on new smooth milled lumber. It can be removed with a commercial-grade deck brightener and a light rinse with a pressure washer.

When staining an aged deck that has not yet been stained with water-based products, simple bleach cleaning will be required. It is best to prepare your bleach concentration with water and test a small area to ensure that you have the proper solution. Once that is determined, spray on the bleach and let it set 15-30 minutes. After all the mold and mildew is gone, rinse the deck with water. It is best to rinse to the center of the structure to reduce the risk of getting the chlorine solution on any neighboring structure or unwanted vegetation.

A commercial-grade deck brightener may also be used to remove any mold or mildew present on a deck. If the deck is free of dirt or tracking marks, a light rinse with a garden hose will be sufficient.

If sanding is required, use a coarse-grit paper to reduce the risk of closing the wood’s pores. All Wood Defender 200 Series Stain & Seals are oil-based penetrating formulas. With that in mind, you may have to use a deck stripper to remove any latex-based products on the structure. A good way to tell the type of product is to look for lap marks, blistering, peeling, or cracking of the existing stain that will be evident in water-based products. A caustic stripper with aggressive pressure washing may be required to restore the wood to its natural tone.

If the wood was previously stained with a water-based product, we recommend using the Wood Defender Semi-Solid Latex Stain. Before the semi-solid product can be applied, the wood surface must be properly prepped to remove any peeling, cracking, or blistering. A light pressure wash may be needed to remove any previously used products that are lifting from the surface.

Wood Defender Fence Stains won’t dry on any non-porous surfaces like windows, gutters, vehicles, and painted surfaces. We recommend using our Wood Defender EZ Kleen-Up for any unwanted overspray that comes into contact with non-porous surfaces during wood and fence staining. We also recommend covering any delicate vegetation with canvas drop cloths or bedsheets prior to the stain application. If you will be spraying near concrete or masonry surfaces, it is best to pretreat the surface with a soap-and-water solution to keep the stain from penetrating the surface. On warmer days, constant water movement may be necessary to keep the surface from drying and allowing the stain to penetrate the surface. Always keep the surface wet, and perform a final rinse to ensure that the surface is free of unwanted overspray. Rinse overspray to a safe location, do not allow product to enter waterways or drains.